Thursday, October 12, 2023

Tips for the Serious Puerh Enthusiast

Airing Out Puerh Tea – The Tradeoff
For most puerh tea drinker airing out is used for dealing with problematic tea. Damp tea, bad smelling tea, tea that requires awakening, all these conditions can benefit from a dose of airing out. The practice involves exposing the tea to external elements. A teacake (or chunks of a broken teacake) is typically laid on a dish and left out in the open air. It is a common practice that is widely used however it is important to understand the risk and tradeoff that takes place.
 
Airing out promotes 2 main activities, namely dissipation and oxidation. When the two are combined and are working aggressively in tandem the outcome becomes very corrosive and draining on the tea. The break down that takes place releases essential oils and other diffusive particles into the air. The open environment consequently causes a direct loss that cuts deeper with each wave of activity that is breaking down and corroding the tea. It is for this reason that airing out is highly effective for dispelling bad aromas. From a tea drinker’s perspective as the tea opens up it is a boon for the senses. The release of volatiles brings out more flavor and nuances, additionally the corrosion takes the edge of the tea softening and rounding out the sharpness. We can reap the benefits but never forget that there is a tradeoff. The practice of airing out is one that gradually leeches away the strength and vigor from the tea. Prolonged overexposure is detrimental, weakening all aspects of a tea's character. That said, the tea leaf is robust and as long as we closely monitor the changes and err on the side of caution it is unlikely that your tea will fall into such dire condition and risk being ruined. Achieving the right result is a balancing act that requires getting to know the state of your tea, especially the turning point.
 
Additional Note: To control and mitigate the effects of a typical airing out I keep my tea in a confined space. The key requirement needed here is patience. For obvious reasons this works less well for dispelling bad aromas but I have been more than satisfied with the results from awakening old puerh tea. A special case involved an old border tea that was tightly sealed for over a decade. I remember removing the tightly wrapped plastic cover, and breaking into the tightly compressed teacake for the first session to assess the tea as well as for reference. I noted the closed and tightknit characteristics. The brew was thick and dense but presented suppressed aroma and taste. Despite this the tea left an impression of being very old, long forgotten by time. I was excited to see the character of the tea unfold. I stored the teacake in ziplock and periodically opened and tasted it every few months. That was how I managed the confinement and introduced air flow.
 
The first year very little changed but the priority was keeping the strength and potency stable. As a tea gets older it becomes less robust and more fragile. I would err on the side of caution. Half way through the second year the tea showed signs of opening up as more aroma and flavors peeled away from the tightknit core. I would notice gradual improvements in my tea session from this point onward but it was not until halfway into the third year that I thought the awakening process had done its job. Obviously there are quicker ways and the awakening process generally does not take this long. I share this case because the experience was especially memorable. It was fun and exciting to be immersed in the journey, taking in the sense of discovery, the suspense of uncertainty and not knowing, pondering the dark depths of the mysterious brew. Patience provides a journey that is nuanced, detailed and richly fulfilling. Old tea is a rare and precious commodity in today’s market. So I chose the slow and gentle approach to get the most from the experience instead of rushing forcefully to the finish whereby certain aspects of the tea would have been lost and diminished. For over 3 years this teacake kept me intrigued, entertained and excited to experience more as it revealed new facets of itself. Thereafter the tea sessions became more like visiting an old friend. As you go deeper into tea appreciation you will begin to see lines and then a web of interlinking connections from the countless tea sessions in your memory, it is deeply satisfying and insightful.