Thursday, September 22, 2022

The Journey - An Evolution in Taste

 
I have fond memories of my time in Hong Kong. During the early 2000s the port city was buzzing with energy and the tea trade was lively. Sadly much has changed since China decided to enforce their authority in the region leading to countless protests and riots. The Covid-19 crisis would add further hardship to the city that has fallen on hard times. My early years of exploring HK were exciting. It was a period of discovery and sensory indulgence that extended to both the tea and the local delicacies. I discovered my love for HK traditional (wet) storage and the many variations offered by different sellers. In the past this old HK ripe (pictured) would have excited me, and even wowed my senses for its distinctive character that was once new to me. Revisiting the tea now, I feel I have moved on. I am no longer in the same place, I have seen more, discovered and added considerably to my experience and knowledge, and weathered the ups and downs of the tea trade. I am no longer easily swayed by the feelings of excitement and romance that accompanied my early adventures. Sipping from my cup my heart is no longer moved by the experience. I see before me a simple tea of mediocre quality at best. I am aware of too many of its flaws. My head tells me to move on. I hold on to the happy memories of a city that is dear to me and empty the content of my cup. There are better tea to enjoy.
 
Puerh enthusiasts are a progressive bunch. We have a tendency to drink “UP”. Looking back over the decades, I have observed with both interest and frustration at how my taste and opinions change during the course of my puerh tea journey. At times going back and forth until the development of a particular tea through age and maturity would reveal the hidden truth. Throughout it all I have come to recognize the value in accumulating key references and learning from benchmark tea productions, as well as pursuing the necessary familiarity with time to hone and sharpen the senses. The scope of puerh tea is astoundingly wide, deep and highly complex. Through the eyes of a beginner, an intermediate and an advance aficionado, each transition will bring about a greater evolution in our ability to taste, see and understand new facets within a tea. Together with a greater accumulation of knowledge our thoughts and opinions mature, and with it comes new perspectives and change.

I bring this to attention because I have seen far too many beginners make the mistake of overcommitting themselves too early in their journey and become burdened by their tea collection. Whether it is getting caught up with the new trend, group buy or latest marketing, blindly acquiring too much tea, too soon is a gamble that rarely succeeds in the long run. Puerh enthusiasts who become dispirited and fall out of love do not necessary keep bad tea. The issue is boredom. People lose interest and lose the connection they once had with their tea over the course of the journey. Because Puerh enthusiasts tend to focus their attention on their teacakes it is easy to overlook the changes that are taking place as we evolve. A thoughtful and serious tea drinker will become more discerning and even critical over time. We have a tendency to drink “UP”, becoming dismissive of substandard and mediocre tea, and seeking out better tea and tea experiences. Those who have fallen into this trap in hindsight have discovered that it is a struggle for a mature tea drinker to appreciate the level of tea that is drunk by a beginner.
 
There is a lesson here and learning from it will help you build a meaningful and hopefully lasting relationship with your tea collection. I offer a few recommendations. Be wise and ensure that you have reached the intermediate level (at least) before you invest substantially. Spend at least a few years becoming acquainted to the scope and diversity of puerh tea and getting to know your personal preferences. Prioritize your tea selection based on the quality of the tea. Build incrementally, adding to your tea collection every year or few years. A tea collection should ignite your passion but at the same time you should also have clear goals behind it. This will give meaning to what you are trying to achieve and bond you to the journey ahead.