Walking the streets of a tea market in Kunming, China in 2005
- 2005 -
On the surface the tea markets in Kunming, China didn’t look any different but a deeper change had been instigated. In 2005 new productions of puerh tea had people perplexed and asking questions. Much of the new tea felt jaded and weak, not to mention considerably different. Where was the riveting power and potency, that elemental presence and rawness that was at the core of puerh tea. Traditional young puerh tea was known to be unapologetically strong and unforgiving, possessing a kick of bitterness that could pull your wandering soul back to the present. The quality of raw material in 2005 felt diminished, furthermore the modern style of puerh tea that was being pushed out underlined teas that were tamed and docile. Puerh tea enthusiasts, especially old-time collectors that I encountered did not welcome the change. Doubts hovered and the cause of it became a major concern and talking point at tea gatherings.
Visiting the sellers of big factory puerh tea that comprised of Menghai TF, Xia Guan TF hinted that something big was happening. The established recipes 7542, 8582 and lineup of XG toucha (among others) epitomizes a history and application of best practice. The tea descended under these historic lineages represents a trust that is tied to maintaining a standard. So when these teas show up noticeably different that trust is broken and the regulars stayed away. Compounding the situation the surge in quantity of puerh tea produced in 2005 had greatly shot up from preceding years raising suspicions. To make matters worse, subsequent batches that followed (ex. 501, 502, 503 …) would bring gaping inconsistencies, further tarnishing the reputation and trust in big factories and their long-standing credibility was questioned. Questions over quality, corporate greed, exploitative practices and even the possibility of sourcing raw materials from outside Yunnan all came to the fore. Amidst the year’s chaos, problems concerning fake tea, mislabelling, speculation and price gorging would also appear at increasing frequency further diminishing trust in the industry. Many people today may not be aware but fears of a market collapse started in earnest in 2005. - Working the tea markets and buying tea in 2005 was the most demanding and physically taxing in all my years. The situation I found on the ground was chaotic and messy, and the lack of good raw material meant that I was looking for the exceptions that defied the overall quality of mediocre and poor offerings.
As a tea drinker who gets immersed in his own space, I will on special occasions commit to extra research to understand the surrounding forces that can shape and influence puerh tea outside my own personal experience. This insight is often a valuable resource towards making smarter decisions and avoiding unnecessary risks. - Later in the year I would learn that incredibly despite the troubles that was brewing, the market in 2005 would make a recovery and rise to new highs. The perception of puerh tea remained positive to the outsider looking in, largely thanks to the Chinese local media continuing to run inspiring stories, news, documentaries that captivated the nation. The poor tea farmer who became rich; a remote village benefiting from better roads and amenities; other poor and struggling families within the locality of famous tea regions finding work with better pay. At the time China was emerging on the world stage as a superpower and the country’s stature gave rise to a strong sense of patriotism that the government endorsed. The appreciation for Chinese culture and arts ran high, boosting support for many local businesses. It was important to note that China the biggest tea drinking nation was having a love affair with puerh tea. The wave of excitement and euphoria had swept the nation, sweeping into other tea regions and stirring up massive interest in puerh tea (in many instances to the detriment of other types of Chinese tea). The industry welcomed an influx of newcomers who had little to no experience with puerh tea. New wealth poured into the industry despite the aforementioned problems becoming progressively worst in the years to follow. Ultimately the fervour waned and the weight of bad practices within the industry would collapse the market resulting in the 2007 Puerh Market Crash.
Addendum: Delving into my memories of the past, I wanted to share my experience of 2005. The year was a pivotal point in puerh tea and heralded the takeover of commercialism in the industry. It is worth noting that Menghai TF had been privatized and 2004 marked a defining transition under new management. The modern style of puerh tea would become a part of sweeping changes that catered to new markets and prioritising greater profits. To be fair there are good puerh tea produced in 2005. That said, the truth that some years are simply better than others is a powerful reality that a puerh enthusiast should take note.
